Thank you all for your responses thus far. If you're starting from scratch with no equipment or software you will eventually buy Photoshop and you will eventually buy a scanner - so just jump in! I'm not sure what the questions are behind your question, if there are any? If you're thinking of taking the plunge into scanning and digital printing I suggest that you buy one of the popular flatbeds and just start scanning - you'll figure out what works for you and what doesn't. It could be that you'll save bundles having someone with a drum scanner making you big cheap raw 16 bit files and you do the correction. It could be that you're making this too complcated. And then there's the possibility that your chosen scanner won't give you back the raw file you want. The disadvantage is that you have to do more work. Each time a new scanner or driver software comes out you don't have a new program to learn. The advantage is that you can learn -only- Photoshop and do all your work there. 16 bit files - they get huge! I guess if you have the latest and greatest computer and loads of memory you can get away with it. The problem with larger film is the size of high res. I've worked like this as needed for years with scans from smaller color negative film. Your idea of gathering raw 16 bit scans and working on them later is sound. Your computer does not know what you saw!! Of course getting your computer moving in the direction with at least knowing how your film stock -should- convert in an ideal lighting situation is a good thing but its not going to be "dead right", not as good as color transparency calibration can be. In other words in one case you're asking your computer to "make me a copy of this color transparency just like it looks" in the other you're asking for "make this color negative look like what I saw". What you get from color negative is "subjective" or "pleasing" color. What you can get with transparency shot under controlled lighting conditions is "accurate" color. These extra steps really screws with color accuracy. The orange mask varies in value with the image density with exposure and you have the extra step of conversion from negative to positive colors plus a whole different playing field when you shoot under different lighting conditions. (coke can red on film = this coke can red on hard drive or add a further conversion for coke can red on monitor) If you calibrated with the same film stock and have your lab details nailed down you can reproduce transparency colors pretty exactly.Ĭolor neg is different. In one instance (trans) you are asking your scanner and computer to agree that what the computer receives agrees with the target or source. You won't get the kind of results from "calibration" for negatives that you will get from color transparency film calibration, its two different animals. Is this any different than letting the scanner software "process" the image, other than I can do the "processing" at my leisure? What are the real differences between NegPos and HDR? What is the real differnces between these two and doing the processing at the time of scanning with the scanning software? In an early post there was mention by Julian that Kirk found Silverfast to be better once the calibration was done? Can either of you expand on this? What does the calibration entail, and is it necessary for scanning color negatives? For those of you who use either of these, do they seem to work better than the scanning software? Are there any other software programs that function in a similiar way? If these work as good as they sound, then all I would have to do at the scanning stage is learn how to get a truely 16bit linear raw scan from whatever scanning software I am using. Is what I need to get started with both of these only a 16bit linear raw scan? This means I wouldn't have to do any color correcting at the time of scanning? I just basically have to set the scanning software to deliver a truely linear 16bit Raw scan? So I can just scan away and then get to "processing" the scans whenever I want, without having to have a scanner around. Firstly, let me ask those of you who use either of these a question. I'm a little new to this, but I am really interested in the concept of these two programs.
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